"...some one said that woman's best work is that which is unseen by mortal eye...that this work is the steady uplifting and upholding of a higher standard of living; it is the reaching forward and upward, both for ourselves and others, towards a loftier life... Yes, it is hard. But, sisters, it is work that belongs to us. It is work that, if not done by us, will never be done at all. For man cannot do it - as far as the family is concerned...For as a rule, and it is a rule that has few exceptions, woman creates the atmosphere of the home."
--Mrs. Julia C.R. Dorr, The Household, Vol. V, 1872.

A new Yahoo! Group has been formed for the Ladies Committee, found at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rsrs_ladies_committee/

2nd Meeting: Sunday, 30 September, 2007, at Van Cortlandt House, New York.  Meeting Report #2

Ladies - 18th Century

By Vivian Davis

Authenticity is a major factor when it comes to reenacting groups. For the Royal Sussex, it is no exception.  Even though the main focus is mostly all about the men’s clothing and accoutrements, this page is dedicated to the authenticity of the 18th century woman and her clothing and accoutrements.

A Bit of History

The women that would have followed the soldiers were most likely to be wives or significant others. For the British forces, there would have rarely been women who just latched on to a regiment for the sole purpose of belonging somewhere. That was a lot more common on the American side.  Women and men who were not soldiers but followed the regiment were called camp followers. Now, the meaning of camp follower in the 20th century is entirely different from the 18th century meaning.

Let’s break it down: Camp follower - one who follows a regiment.

Typical Dress - A typical woman who followed her husband in the American Revolution would not have warn her silks. The most common material in the 18th century was linen and wool. Linen derives from a plant called flax and this flax goes through a long process of spinning and weaving to form the familiar material. Linen was also the cheapest material around. Wool was used around the fire because if your wool petticoat would ever catch a spark, it would just singe. Also, wool was really warm for those cold winter months. Cotton was somewhat expensive in the 18th century. It was around though and used. Nowadays it’s linen and wool that are expensive and cotton cheap. Unfortunately, that is the price we have to pay.  For the woman in the Royal Sussex Society, you are required to wear at least two petticoats (skirts), shift (think undershirt), stays (corset) for the correct 18th century “triangular” figure, jacket, short gown or camp gown, modesty piece and cap. Mob caps and the English & French bodices are frowned upon and it would be a waste of your money.

Warning: Stay away from print material. It would be best to ask either Eliza or myself, Vivianne, before you buy material. There are times when an outfit of “upper” class is necessary, such as at dinners or soirees. As far as hair goes, it must be warn up and under a cap at all times. You would be called improper if you didn’t. Don’t worry, we know that it may take a while before you will get a full kit in order. As long as you have a general understanding of what you are supposed to wear, you’ll be fine and will enjoy it.

Choices, Choices....

Now, as far as sewing and purchasing goes. If you sew and want to sew your outfit, it’s cheaper and the personal  satisfaction is enjoyable. BUT all the visible stitches will have to be done by hand. Everything else may be done by machine. If you are sewingly challenged or just lazy, vendors called sutlers sell whatever you need. Here is where you also have to be careful. The majority of sutlers sell quality items and are well respected, but a lot of them sell period incorrect items too. If you are not sure, Eliza and I are here to help. Many sutlers are online too.   J.P. Ryan, Period Impressions, Rocking Horse Farm are just a few of the pattern companies. I prefer J.P. Ryan because she is the most respected and specializes in the 18th century.

For ready made clothes, the Silly Sisters tops them all. You will get good quality items from them, guaranteed. I warn you, they are expensive and it does take them a while to make the clothes.  Smoke and Fire, Jas Townsend, Smiling Fox Forge (questionable) and G. Gedney Godwin are other well known sutlers.

Even women will find that it will be hard to resist that certain petticoat or fan. In any case, at least you’re not one of the menfolk. I hope this page enlightened and interested you in reenacting. Once again, any questions, just drop a line to the Society.